VALENCIA

5th - 8th March 2011

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Valencia is Spain’s third largest city and lies on the mediterranean shores of Spain. It offers a mixture of culture and entertainment through historic monuments, art and architecture, parks and a very long sandy beach for relaxation.

I visited Valencia on the weekend of Carnival (5^th - 8^th March 2011) leaving Malta by Ryanair at 06.50 and arriving at 09.15. This was a very convenient flight because practically I earned a whole Saturday in the Spanish city. The weather was great, most of the time with blue skies but quite cool. Temperatures varied from 7 or 8 degrees early morning up to 18 degrees at peak day going down again during the evening and particularly at night.

Valencia offers a lot of interesting things to do and nice places to visit. A journey in time could well start in the medieval old city centre, with Plaza Reina in front of the Cathedral and the beautiful Plaza de la Virgen at the back. The Cathedral was first founded in the 13^th century after the Re-conquista, with a mixture of styles from Gothic to Baroque to Neo-Classical. It is famous for the Holy Grail (the chalice of the last supper), which is said to have been taken to Rome by St Peter and then in the 3^rd century Saint Lawrence sent it to Huesca, his home town, where it was protected from Islamic invaders of the Iberian Peninsula. It was later protected by the Kings of Spain and the Knights of the Holy Grail until it was finally presented to the Valencia Cathedral in the XV century. Guided individual tours are held at the Cathedral, the Museum and the Holy Grail Chapel from 10.00 to 17.00 hrs (€4.5).

You will find many Churches in the Old city. Just at the back of the Cathedral, facing the Plaza de la Virgen, there is the Basilica of the Virgen de Los Desamparados (Virgin of the Forsaken), the second most important religious structure in the city. The fountain at the side of the square is dedicated to the Rio Turia (the Turia River) which after the catastrophic floods of 1957, was divided in two at the western city limits. The water was diverted southwards along a new course on the outskirts of the city. The old riverbed is now a green park that allows cyclists and pedestrians to traverse much of the city without the use of roads. The park, called the 'Garden of the Turia' (Jardí del Túria/Jardín del Turia) boasts numerous ponds, paths, fountains, flowers, football pitches, cafés, artworks, climbing walls, an athletics track, a Zen garden and more. The many bridges overhead carry traffic across the park.

In the old part of Valencia, the cobbled streets make you feel welcome. Churches are in abundance. In the old centre you will find the Iglesia de San Juan del Hospital, the Iglesia y Torre de Santa Catalina, the Iglesia de los Santos Juanes, the Iglesia del Carmen, the Iglesia de Santo Tomas y San Felipe Neri and the Iglesia de San Esteban. Outside the old city you will find the Monasterio de San Miguel de los Reyes, the Convento de Santo Domingo, the Convento de la Trinidad, the Iglesia de Dan Juan de la Cruz and the Iglesia de San Agustin Ermita de Santa Lucia.

An interesting historical building worth visiting is the Serrano Towers, impressive 15th century Towers which were once part of the old city walls. Built originally on the river banks, the towers are an important piece of the early history of Valencia. From up the towers you can enjoy a beautiful panorama of the city.

Another important building is the Lonja de la Seda (the Silk Exchange), a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a preserved example of Late Gothic architecture [Open 10.00 - 14.00 & 16.30 - 20.30 Sun & Hols:10.00 - 15.00 closed Mondays entrance free]. Built in the beginning of XVI century, La Lonja is the real emblem of the Golden Age of Valencia - the times when this city was one Europe's main cultural and economic centres.

Outside the city centre, along an axis of just under two kilometres that was formerly the bed of the River Turia, lies a complex with striking architecture designed by Santiago Calatrava and Félix Candela. The City of Arts and Sciences is a unique complex devoted to scientific and cultural dissemination which is made up of five main elements: the Hemisfèric (IMAX cinema and digital projections), the Umbracle (a landscaped vantage point and car park), the Príncipe Felipe Science Museum (an innovative centre of interactive science), the Oceanográfico (the largest aquarium in Europe with over 500 marine species) and the Palau de les Arts Reina Sofía (which takes care of the operatic programme). http://www.cac.es

To visit this complex you require at least one whole day. However, if time is not on your side then, at least, make sure you visit the Oceanografico and experience the sensation of passing through a glass tunnel underneath sharks and other fish species. One could also have lunch in one of eating places inside the park. A visit to the Oceanografico would take from 3 to 4 hours.

On the other side of the Turia River bed, to the north west of the Old City, there is another attraction worth visiting called Bioparc. This new space for animals inside the Parque de Cabecera presents a new generation zoo conceived with the zoo-immersion philosophy. When entering the more than 100,000 square metres park, the visitor feels totally submerged in the wild habitats that have been recreated here: the Savannah, Madagascar and Equatorial Africa. Visitors can enjoy, practically without barriers, spectacular landscapes in which different species co-exist as they would in nature. www.bioparcvalencia.es/en/

Stretching along the eastern periphery of the city and just minutes from the centre you'll find Valencia's two urban beaches, Las Arenas and La Malvarrosa, both of which are easily reached via city bus, metro, bike, or a pleasant stroll. Along the Valencia beach the "Paseo Marítimo," a palm-lined, garden-filled, tiled promenade runs along from Valencia's port northwards to Alboraya. The promenade, which continues for multiple kilometres, is popular for a stroll, jogging and, in general, just to "hang out." Just across the promenade from the Valencia beach, with terraces looking out over the glimmering Mediterranean waters are some of Valencia's best restaurants for paella, fresh seafood and other local food specialties.

Transport

Valencia has a very good transport system consisting of metro, buses and a tram. It is easy to transfer from and to the airport by metro no 3 and no 5. The bus network serves practically all the city. The metro and the tram also provide a link between the city centre and Valencia’s beaches.

Accommodation

It is worth staying at a hotel in the city centre. I stayed at the Hotel Catalunya Excelsior, Barcelonina, a very clean and comfortable 3 star hotel in an excellent location in the centre, just a 7 minutes walk from the nearest metro stations of Colon or Xativa.

Food

Valencia is the home city of the Paella. Unlike the regular Paella made with sea food, the Valencian Paella is cooked with chicken and rabbit. One important thing to keep in mind is that Spanish restaurants open late. Valencian restaurants usually open for lunch from 14.00 – 16.00 and for dinner from 21.00 to 24.00. This could create a problem for those accustomed to dine early.

Carnival

Carnival is celebrated around the main Plaza de Ayuntamiento. On Saturday evening, there is a very simple parade is organised in the square which is accompanied by many fire crackers. Infact, fire crackers are very popular and form an integral part of festive celebrations.

On Sunday morning I followed another parade where children’s floats were pulled inside the streets behind the Cathedral towards Plaza del Carmen, accompanied by a small band. Most children were dressed in simple costumes representing old trades.